I use SikaBond adhesive and have excellent results with it. In Australia it is available from Bunnings for about 5 dollars. It is beige in colour.
Some notes from my usage of it.
1: It never actually cures to a rigid fill, this is not necessary for internal bulkhead work, but not for the actual hull constructions (chines )
2: Test of right angled ply adhesion , after 4 weeks , actually had to rip the top ply completely way to separate.
3: Practice on scrap ply until you get the feel of the job. Cutting the optimum nozzle angle and opening is recommended by starting small on scrap. It isn’t critical, but a neater job will result.
4: It is very ‘tacky’ stuff as you will find. In cold weather it may take a day or two the be self- supporting, in warmer weather a day, in hot weather, hours.
5: To ensure a neat job, lay masking tape either side of the adhesion path and as soon as you lay it, and before any skin forms, remove it carefully. Clean up any overspills with mineral turpentine.
A recent suggestion says to use a disposable 30mm syringe to more precisely lay the bead. I haven’t tried it yet but it seems very feasible.
6: Unlike some sealants/glues, it doesn’t harden in the nozzle too quickly, I just use a satay stick between uses in the nozzle. It is very cheap so when you finish the whole job just use a cartridge sealing cap.
7: Once the skin forms, do not attempt to change the fillet, it will just make a mess.
If it doesn’t quite work out as picture perfect (Gary sets a high standard) don’t stress, once painted over and the deck goes on only you will be aware.
Hands up all of us who have less than a highly desirable finish but are very happy anyway.?